Every glass of wine tells a story, and some of these stories have roots in distant eras, among ancient civilizations and forgotten winemaking techniques.
Today, we want to take you on a journey back in time to ancient Rome, to discover how our ancestors made wine and how these techniques, hidden for centuries, continue to inspire us today. This journey leads us directly to Eúxenos, our amphora-aged wine of which we’ve already told you before, born from a deep respect and fascination for these ancient traditions.
Winemaking in ancient Rome was a complex art that combined technical knowledge with a deep understanding of materials. A central element of this process was the dolium, a large terracotta vessel with a rounded body, flat base, and wide opening, used for fermentation, storage, and aging of wine. These containers, often buried up to the rim, offered significant advantages: the underground setting ensured a stable temperature during fermentation, while the porosity of the terracotta allowed for controlled micro-oxygenation, positively influencing the wine’s aromatic profile.
An interesting comparison can be made between the Roman dolia and Georgian qvevri, large underground terracotta vessels still used in traditional Georgian winemaking. Both methods rely on spontaneous fermentation, using the natural yeasts present on the grape skins, and the use of buried containers to maintain a constant temperature. However, significant differences exist: while qvevri are entirely buried, Roman dolia were often partially buried or placed above ground, depending on specific production needs.
The shape and structure of the dolia were designed to facilitate the winemaking process. Their wide openings allowed for easy cleaning and management of the must, while their large capacity—often thousands of liters—enabled large-scale production. The porosity of the terracotta encouraged slow oxygenation, contributing to the development of complex aromas and wine stabilization. Additionally, burying the dolia helped maintain a constant temperature, essential for controlled fermentation.
A key element in dolium winemaking was the extended contact with grape skins, a practice now recognized in the production of orange wines. This method gave the wine a greater tannic structure and distinctive aromatic complexity. Moreover, the formation of a flor of yeasts on the surface during fermentation helped protect the wine from oxidation and developed unique aromatic profiles.
Roman winemaking practices were highly sophisticated, utilizing the properties of materials and advanced fermentation techniques to produce high-quality wines. A comparative study with Georgian traditions offers valuable insights into these ancient methods and their impact on the sensory profile of the wines produced.
These techniques are not just a legacy of the past but are still relevant today in our production.
At Tenuta di Castellaro, we draw inspiration from these ancient traditions to create wines that bridge the past and the present. A perfect example of this is our Eúxenos, a dry white wine made entirely from Malvasia delle Lipari grapes. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in cocciopesto amphorae, a material used since the Hellenic and Roman periods, and the wine remains in contact with the skins for oltre 20 days, followed by 9 months of aging in amphora. This process imparts notes of candied and toasted fruit, with a delicate minerality, offering a sensory experience that echoes the ancient winemaking techniques.
Through Eúxenos, we celebrate the richness of our winemaking history, proving that the techniques of the past can still create extraordinary wines today.
